Zagreb grew out of two rival hilltop settlements that spent centuries feuding before they agreed to become one city, and the seam between them is still there on the ground.
This self-guided audio tour climbs from King Tomislav Square and the Art Pavilion through Zrinjevac and Ban Jelačić Square to the Stone Gate, Tkalčićeva, Dolac market, the Museum of Broken Relationships and the cathedral.
Fourteen stops across the Lower and Upper Towns, roughly two hours at your own pace, with narration playing as you walk. Your phone is the guide, so start whenever you like and stop for a coffee whenever you want.
